Domaine Denis Mortet 2015 Gevrey Chambertin Mes Cinq Terriors (94WA 93WS)
- Size: 750ml
- Item Code: WN18021601
- Vintage: 2015
The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroir comes from five parcels from around the appellation and it includes 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak. It has a vibrant bouquet, a melange of blue and black fruit that lends it a Fixin-like personality. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin that are filigree. This has a silky texture, perfectly judged acidity and disarming purity on the finish. This is premier cru quality—period. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet’s 2015 Burgundies kicked arse…but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (WA)“Round and silky, this red delivers brilliant cherry and currant flavors wrapped in a coating of sweet spices. Dense without sacrificing a fluid impression. Firms up on the lingering finish” (WS)
Burgundy, or Bourgogne, is the home of 3 distinctive wines: silky Pinot Noir, intense Chardonnay, and fruity Gamay (Beaujolais). Though one-third the size of Bordeaux, it is far more complex. As a result of the ancient inheritance laws requiring subdivision of land, each vineyard has many owners. So in addition to knowing vineyards, wine buyers have to know the owners or their négoçiants (agents).
Burgundy is composed of 6 main regions: Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, Beaujolais, and Mâconnais. Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune are the northern and southern parts of Côte d’Or — the Golden Slope — a region whose cool climate and elevated land make it one of the best home for the volatile Pinot Noir and complex Chardonnay.
Pinot Noir (Franc Pineau, Noirien, Savagnin Noir, Morillon, Auvernat, Plant Doré, Blaueburgunder, Blauer Klevner, Cortaillod, Pignola, Pinot Nero, Pignola, Rouci and Nagyburgundi.) A wild vine present in Burgundy when the Romans invaded Gaul, Pinot Noir was among the first vines to be domesticated. The name ”pinot,” suggestive of its pine-cone shaped clusters, was in use as early as the fourth century. Its preeminence as the hallowed grape of the Côte d’Or dates from 1395, when Duke Philippe the Bold banned plantings of Gamay in Pinot Noir’s favor. In the early 1990s, research conducted by plant geneticist Carole Meredith at the University of California at Davis revealed a common heritage between Pinot Noir and a number of other grape varieties indigenous to northern France. Based on DNA fingerprinting, she concluded that an original Pinot prototype and an obscure vine called Gouais Blanc are the parents of Pinot Noir and fifteen other Gallic varieties, including Chardonnay and Gamay Noir.
Pinot Noir is genetically highly unstable, and has mutated to over a thousand clones in Burgundy alone. Difficult and fragile, it buds early and ripens early, and so requires a relatively cool climate in order to remain on the vine long enough to develop flavor, aroma and complexity. Though it needs ample warmth to ripen fully, it is susceptible to too much heat as well as to frost, humidity and rot. The best soil profile for Pinot Noir is well drained, chalky clay, but it also fares well in marly loam. The unique presence in Burgundy of a mineral called montmorillonite, which facilitates the plant’s absorption of elements from the soil, may be one of the reasons why red Burgundies so precisely reflect their microclimates. Of moderate vigor and low productivity, the vine bears small, compact clusters of not very thick skinned berries which are high in acid, moderate in tannin, not very deep in color and delicately scented. What color it has can drop out during careless vinification.
Also a foundation variety of Champagne, Pinot Noir is seldom blended with other grapes, but is occasionally is vinified as a rosé. It has migrated successfully to cooler climates of the new world, notably the Carneros district of California, where it loses the earthy Burgundian stamp but acquires density and color, and less so to Germany where, as Spätburgunder, it is barely more than a fresh rosé.
The highest expression of this holy grail of wine is a silky, deceptively powerful wine of sweet, elegantly subtle red berry, summer pudding fruit with a tapestry of earthy, floral, mushroom and mineral notes and an airy, seductively complex perfume which reflects all of this. Also grown in the Santa Barbara, Sonoma, Oregon, the Loire Valley, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, Eastern Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa.